The Charm of Shinduxa: A Tale from the Eyes of a Villager

By Su’ad and Yamama

As we embarked on our exploration of the village of Shinduxa, we encountered more questions than answers and faced numerous complaints about the village from the elderly men. Our curiosity was piqued about the history of the Jewish community in the area. However, after being informed by another old man that there were no Jews in the village, we decided that the next person we encountered would be our final attempt. Little did we know that this person would turn out to be our hero.

Walking along the road, dressed in traditional Kurdish attire, hands locked behind her back, was Jwayra. We noted to ourselves, "If an elderly lady is out in the sun at 2:00 during Ramadan, she must be special." Approaching her, we greeted her with "Xude qwate xalat!" (May God grant you strength) and posed the same questions we had asked others regarding the village. To our surprise, instead of complaining about the cement roads, she expressed that she believed it to be a wonderful place to live. When we inquired if she resided there, she confirmed and expressed her willingness to share more about the village.

Before delving further into our conversation, we offered her a seat or suggested finding a spot where the sun wouldn't directly hit her. However, she politely declined, stating, "No, no, I am very comfortable like this. The doctor told me that I need vitamin D from the sun, and I also need to walk, so I'm fulfilling both now." Her words were accompanied by a warm smile, and the stories etched onto her face by years of sun and life became apparent. Out of respect, we refrained from asking her age but estimated that she was around 70.

Suggesting the idea of accompanying her on her walk, I could see her instant enthusiasm. And so, our journey together began.

We inquired about the direction we should take, and she led us down the street. We also asked if she would be willing to answer more questions about the village, to which she happily agreed. As we walked, we carefully crafted our questions to gather useful information for our article, particularly regarding the old Jewish community in Shinduxa.

As we strolled, a refreshing breeze brushed against us while passing by the hill. The old lady shared, "This is the village's hill, and it also serves as the village's cemetery." Curious, we asked if everyone living in the village was originally from Shinduxa. With a sense of pride, she replied, "Oh yes, everyone here is a true Shindukhi. Look at these houses; they all belong to original Shindukhis. Shinduxa is a very old city, indeed."

We further inquired if the village had undergone any changes over time. She responded firmly, "No, it hasn't." At this point, it became evident that the woman possessed the same level of knowledge about the village as we did. We then asked her when she had arrived in Shinduxa. Pondering for a moment, she said, "It was around 2014 or maybe 2015. No, perhaps even earlier, before ISIS attacked."

Realizing that she didn't possess the specific information we sought about the Jewish community in Shinduxa, we decided not to disturb her any longer and expressed our gratitude for her time. However, she insisted, saying, "No, no, wait. We can walk a little bit more, just around the corner..." Curiosity piqued, we continued our walk together.

Seizing the opportunity, we asked if she had escaped when ISIS attacked. She confirmed, "Yes, we fled to our original village, Mangeske. We were consumed by fear and worried about what might happen. Just like everyone else in Shinduxa and those we know, we all headed back to our respective villages. Everyone sought refuge in the north."

We continued our walk with her, heading downhill to the spot where we initially met her. In front of her house, there was a viewpoint that offered a breathtaking sight. From there, all we could see were the grand houses on both sides and the towering mountain that provided support to Shindukha, making everything else appear small in comparison. Our current location also provided a view of the highway and tall buildings, along with another picturesque green hill, similar to the rest of Shindukha's landscape.

Pausing to admire the magnificent view, we couldn't help but comment on the freshness and clarity of the air. She wholeheartedly agreed, saying, "I like it a lot, I really do. I love it," accompanied by a joyful laughter. We echoed her sentiment, acknowledging the purity of the air in Shindukha.

She shared with us that her brother lived in "Sika Asre," but whenever she visited, she felt suffocated due to the different air quality. She recounted how her relatives would insist that she stay for two or three days, but she always firmly declined, responding with a laugh, "No, I will not stay here. I cannot." It seemed that the mere thought of living in Shinduxa filled her with happiness and warmth.

The mention of her brother may have reminded her of her family, prompting her to add quickly, "I have three daughters-in-law. Two of them are 'out,' which is a common Kurdish word for someone living in Europe. But one of them is here, and the other is my son's cousin." We offered our blessings for their lives, and she responded politely, "Thank you so much. May God bless you. You are two beautiful young ladies," tapping our shoulders affectionately.

As we conversed with her and continued walking through the narrow streets of Shindukha, a gentle scent of orange blossoms wafted in the air, adding to the enchanting atmosphere.

We continued our walk with her, descending further. We reached the spot where we first met her, in front of her house. From there, all we could see were the imposing houses on either side and the towering mountain that served as a backdrop to Shindukha. It was so massive that it made everything else appear small in comparison.

At our current location, we had a view of the highway, high-rise buildings, and another beautiful green hill, just like every other hill in Shindukha. We couldn't resist pausing to take in the breathtaking view—the clear air, the lush green spaces adorned with yellow flowers. We couldn't help but ask her how much she enjoyed living in Shindukha.

As Jwayra led the way, she stopped and asked the people of Shinduxa about the history of the village. She seemed deeply involved, as if she were a young journalist investigating a new place. The villagers were happy to share their knowledge and stories with her.

They told her that Shinduxa had a long and rich history, dating back several centuries. The village was originally settled by a group of nomadic tribes who found the area fertile and suitable for cultivation. Over time, the village grew and developed into a thriving community.

The villagers spoke about the traditions and customs that had been passed down through generations. They mentioned festivals and celebrations that were unique to Shindukha, highlighting the close-knit nature of the community. They also spoke about the challenges they faced, such as periodic floods and harsh weather conditions, but emphasized their resilience in overcoming these difficulties.

Jwayra listened attentively, taking notes and asking follow-up questions. She seemed genuinely interested in capturing the essence of the village's history and the lives of its people. The villagers appreciated her curiosity and enthusiasm, and they were happy to contribute to her quest for knowledge.

As they continued their walk through the village, Jwayra shared snippets of information with her companions, excitedly narrating the stories she had gathered. The rich tapestry of Shindukha's history came to life through her words, painting a vivid picture of the village's past.

Jwayra's passion for Shindukha, a land she wasn't born in but loves deeply, left a profound impression on us. It reinforced the idea that home is not defined solely by where one is born but rather where their heart finds belonging. Through our interactions with Jwayra, we were able to see the world in a new light, gaining a fresh perspective on the importance of love and connection to a place.

Jwayra eventually became the main character of our story, and we left shinduxa with little to no new informations about the history of it, but with new glasses, today we saw the world in Jwayra’s eyes and we felt her passion for Shindukha, a land she wasn’t born on but loves more than any other land in the world, it’s very true what people say, home is not where you were born, it’s where your heart belongs.